The SECRET To Sharp Images In LOW LIGHT: How to set Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO (Photography Hack)

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  1. This is such a great walkthrough. As a very amateur photog who takes takes pics of his kids on stage, this very directly addresses some of my frustrations.

    Question- My Tamron 45mm 1.8 G2 is my fastest lens (and stablized). Would you recommend shooting wide open so I can get a faster shutter speed? What would you suggest?

  2. This person just doesn't know how to use their settings to compensate for the available light. I don't care if you had only a few minutes to set up. It takes less than a minute to take a test shot, see how much light you're getting, and adjust accordingly. I shoot bands in dark clubs with 1/250 at 2.8 and 1600-3200 ISO. A basketball stadium would be an embarrassment of riches when it comes to available light by comparison.

  3. Do you do a tutorial on Nikon 610 ? Thanks in advance …… im an amateur in knowledge and price barrier and any help would be very much appreciated , merry Xmas

  4. Underexposing in poor light is precisely how you create noise. I would never advise underexposing by a stop to "save noise" from a higher ISO.
    Better to raise the ISO and expose ETTR ( expose to the right side of the histogram), then adjust the clean image in post from a top down approach using a clean file that is fully data saturated. As compared to reviving a lifeless image image full of noisy pixels.
    My thoughts

  5. This gentleman is very knowledgeable , a first class photographer , and offers good sound advise , but I wish he would stop identifying himself with the ridiculous and irritating inflection that he uses . It makes him look like such a Twat , which is a pity , as quite a few new people coming on to this channel , will perhaps not take him seriously !

  6. Recently, I was at a classic dance rehearsal and used a manual Nikkor 135mm (x1.5) f/2.8 lens mounted on a Nikon D7000 (fully compatible due to its non-cpu lens feature) and also a Sigma 17-55mm f/2.8 lens kit. I almost always use Aperture priority mode, but I chose 1200 ISO as to avoid grain and noise. Of course, I chose to shoot scenes where light was higher, but since I faced the same problem, I had to guess the moments the dancers would be frozen between their movements, something a bit hard to do (though it's got its fun). I haven't yet edited these pictures that are all in raw format, but I wish I had seen your video before. I already downloaded your guide. Thanks a lot.

  7. For me, I only have a 55-250 f/4-5.6 IS STM lens to take basketball game players and it was a struggle for me to set it manual so what I did was to use the automatic motion setting to see how the exposure change because it is different for each lens that makes a HUGE impact on your picture no matter how good is your camera body. By testing with the automatic motion setting (sport) I can adjust it similarly onto manual mode and use 9 point metering on my T7i to sharpening the basketball player! The result was better than I thought.
    He has that 70-200 f/2.8 is a real advantage in low light but it will still be hard IF YOU DONT ADJUST THE SETTING BEFORE THE GAME. 🙂
    I always try to keep my ISO ranging between 3200-6400 with shuttle speed of 1/125-1/250 so it won't mess up my image because of the low light grain.

  8. Great video Jared! I shoot a lot of HS sports (basketball) and gym lighting stinks! I shoot Canon and will shoot shutter priority with the camera set down a full stop and auto ISO, or I'll adjust the ISO to keep my aperture in the 3.2 to 4.0 range (2.8 if I have to go that low but prefer a little more DOF). Knowing I'm going to be shooting down a full stop, but having the camera show me the rest of my settings are working helps keep me honest, and I can correct the noise and exposure in RAW after the fact.

  9. yeaaahhh I'm guessing that 500 ISO with the d5000 alone will introduce as much grain if not more than 3 stops post processing will. That in conjunction with increasing exposure post process definitely will.

  10. So you say shoot full Manual, right.
    I have a D750 with an 80-200 2.8ED and I think I can run ISO 1600 @ 2.8 & 800 shutter speed and get similar results to the D500 at your settings?


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